The Ultimate F-road in Iceland
Iceland's F-roads are more than just routes, they're adventures through raw, untamed landscapes. Unpaved and rugged, these mountain roads demand a capable 4x4 and a spirit for exploration. Among them, the famed Kjalvegur, stands out as the ultimate challenge, offering drivers a unique taste of Iceland's wild beauty.
The Ultimate Mountain Road in Iceland: Kjalvegur 35
Most of Iceland's mountain roads are known as F-roads. The 'F' stands for fjall, which means mountain in Icelandic. These roads are unpaved, and the terrain can be pretty rough-going. It's not unusual to experience potholes, and sometimes they even require drivers to ford rivers. It's no wonder, then, that to tackle these routes, you need a 4x4, preferably one with high clearance. This isn't the kind of road you conquer in a city runabout.
Nevertheless, F-roads in Iceland are well marked on maps and via roadside signage, so there's no reason not to be fully prepared. But did you know that sometimes roads get reclassified? One such route is Kjalvegur, the F35 in the past, but now simply the 35. We still think it's the ultimate mountain road in Iceland. Find out why as we share with you what it's like to drive it and what you can expect to see along the way.
Is Kjalvegur officially an F-road?
Kjalvegur (also called Kjölur) appears in many online articles as the F35. However, if you take a close look at the country's road map on the road.is, you'll notice that the road is marked as 35, not F35. While technically, it's true to say the 35 isn't an F-road, in practice, it may as well be.
Take a close look at the rental agreement for your hire car. You'll see that alongside the clause restricting the types of car that are permitted to drive on F-roads, Kjalvegur is listed – it's considered the same:
"The renter may not drive the car on mountain or highland roads, or roads marked "F" on a map or a road sign, including Kjölur (road 35), Kaldidalur (road 550) and Sprengisandur (road 26) routes, unless the car is a four wheel drive or all-wheel drive."
Why is Kjalvegur (35) unusual?
You could say some of Iceland's F-roads are roads to nowhere. They head into the mountainous interior and peter out when the terrain creates a dead end, such as when the road leads to a glacier. But Kjalvegur, the 35, is different. It basically traverses the highlands of Iceland, following a largely north-south trajectory as it makes its way through the mountains.
Many visitors to Iceland will be tempted to begin the 35 at Gullfoss waterfall. North of this incredible stop on the Golden Circle is where the road used to receive its F-road classification. And even now, it's not hard to see why. While the road as far as Gullfoss is tarmacked and smooth-going, once you're past it, the road becomes graveled and far less predictable.
What makes Kjalvegur (35) worth driving?
Even though on the map, the 35 looks like it might be a shortcut north compared to the ring road, its uneven surface and lower speed limit means you won't save time. This road tops out as one of the highest roads in the country, rising to 672 meters (2,204 feet) above sea level. That partly explains why it's closed for much of the year. Heavy snowfalls are common, making the road impassable.
But if you're able to choose this route – that is, if you're traveling in the summer months when it's open – then we're sure you are going to be wowed by the surrounding landscape.
Highlights of Kjalvegur (35)
Take a look at Google Maps, and you'll see that it says you can drive the 35 in around three and a half hours. That's assuming you start from Gullfoss and then travel north until you join the ring road just outside Blönduós via the 731. In practice, you'd probably take at least a little longer, as driving conditions dictate. The speed limit for gravel roads is 80 kph, but that often feels too fast, particularly if the road surface is wet or icy.
But actually, it's most likely you'd take a lot longer than three and a half hours. That's because there are so many possible stops along the way. The summer's long hours of daylight are a blessing, as that will enable you to make a few detours without having to drive in darkness. You'll be able to hike and swim as well as stop to take advantage of a few photos of the many great opportunities.
Here are just a few of the places you might visit along the way:
- The 35 squeezes between two glaciers, Langjökull to the west and Hofsjökull to the east. You'll be treated to some amazing views of these two vast bodies of ice as you make your way past. That in itself would probably be reason enough for most tourists to consider driving it, but that's not all the treats the road has in store.
- The road skirts the southern edge of Hvítárvatn. This is a beautiful glacier lake and the one which feeds the River Hvítá (and, of course, Gullfoss). The water's color is caused by that glacial connection, and sometimes, you might see small icebergs bobbing on the lake's surface. In the past, two outlet glaciers of Langjökull, Nordurjökull, and Sudurjökull, fed into the lake. Today, as Sudurjökull has retreated, it's left to Nordurjökull alone.
- Kerlingarfjöll is a colorful stop not far from Kjalvegur. You'll need to detour slightly off the 35, but when you see how photogenic the contrast looks where the grooves in its rust-colored rhyolite mountains have collected snow, it'll definitely be worth it. Throw in a few mineral-rich geothermal pools, and you'll really be glad you came.
- You'll have traveled around 100km (60 or so miles) from Gullfoss by the time you reach Hveravellir, another absolute gem on Route 35. Steam rises from the hot ground of this fabulous geothermal valley, which is overflowing with hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pools. Take a dip in Bláhver, where hot and cold water mix so that you can wallow in water that's the right temperature for you.
As you can see, there's no shortage of things to see, both from the car and around it. As with any F-roads in Iceland, let's go through the preparations you might make and the things you should probably carry with you.
- Hire a decent-sized 4x4 or AWD vehicle. Where the road is bumpy, having a high clearance is essential. You won't be insured if you attempt to drive this road in a regular car, nor will it be a pleasant experience, so don't try.
- Before you set out, check the car is in good condition and make sure you have a full tank of petrol or diesel. Let someone at your destination know that you'll be driving this route and give them an approximate time of arrival.
- Take a look at the local weather forecast. This is a far nicer route when the sun is shining, but weather can change fast so even in summer, be prepared for fog patches and for rain showers just in case.
- Bring snacks and drinks with you in the car. You'll also want to make sure you have a camera or a fully charged phone to record the panoramic views. Swimwear and a towel are also a must for those geothermal pools.
What are you waiting for? Why not lock in your vehicle today and plan your Kjalvegur (35) adventure with us?